Alfama
The oldest district — the medieval quarter that survived the 1755 earthquake, a maze of stepped lanes climbing to São Jorge Castle. The Tram 28 grinds through it, the miradouros (Portas do Sol, Santa Luzia) frame the postcard views, and the fado houses come alive after dark — Mesa de Frades in a former chapel, Clube de Fado, casual A Baiuca. Get lost on purpose; the map won't help you here anyway.




